BSP sawblade review

Jordan Crawford, of Jordswoodshop creates free online woodworking videos every week. He covers every topic from milling and seasoning your own timber, through to fine furniture production.

He recently used one of our new BSP Blue combination timber/panel sawblades in his Perth (Western Australia) workshop – the BSP sawblade review below is the result.

(If you’d rather read the review, we’ve also got a full transcription of Jordans review below the video)

JWS Review: BSP Sawblade Review

Welcome to Jord’s Wood Shop. In this video, I am going to be showing off one of the new BSP saw blades, which are about to hit the Australian market thanks to the guys over at IWoodLike.

Now, I am going to be completely honest with you guys. I did get this blade sent to me free of charge, but I made it very clear in our agreement that if I wasn’t happy with the blade, I wasn’t going to lie to you guys about it.

So what your about to see is my 100% honest opinion of this new blade.

The first thing I want to talk to you guys about is just some of the specs. I am not going to go into full details like a salesman because, well, I am not a salesman, but just a few things which I thought were pretty cool, and I think that you guys would find pretty cool as well.

Now, the first thing about this blade is that it’s actually made in Italy. Now, as we know, Europeans make quality, and Italy is right up there. On top of that, the base, or the sorry, the plate of this is either going to be Italian or German steel, so it must depend on the batch. I am not entirely sure. The website is in Italian – google didn’t do a great job of translating it. But you know, Germany and Italy have really high standards in all things they do, and that is no exception for steel. At least that’s what I believe.

Now, the second thing I want to talk about is this carbide. Now, this is something I really didn’t know anything about and, well, still, let’s be honest, I only know what I’ve read. So I don’t know that much, but there’s different grades, which is are suited to certain tasks. Now, these blades use a grade which is called KCR06, or KCR6. From what I’ve read, that is the highest grade of carbide you can use to get the best finish on a variety of materials. So whether you’re using it on plywood, solid wood, MDF, particle board, blah, blah, blah. KCR06 is the best possible sort of multi-combination carbide you can use. Now, there’s higher grades of carbide which you can get, but generally they are only suited to single materials.

So it’s either a plywood blade or a particle board blade or something like that. So here we like to use our blades on a variety of materials, so that’s pretty important to know and that you’re getting a nice quality carbide.

Now, the last thing I want to talk about is these laser-cut slots here, and these are actually noise-deadening slots. So what they are there for is to reduce noise and vibration in the blade. Now, the BSP blades actually use two processes. So it’s—well the first thing is obviously laser cutting those slots, but the second thing is filling them with a polyurethane deadener, and that kind of gives it a second level of density or deadness when it comes to this anti-vibration.

Now, to give you an idea of what these do. This is a blade I purchased not that long ago, and it’s a high-quality blade. It costs quite a bit of money, but look at what happens when I hit it with this nut here, or bolt.

So it rings for a while, resonates, it’s not terribly ear-splitting loud. But it does ring quite loudly, and it resonates as well. Now, this is the blade which actually came on the saw, and as you can see it’s had a bit of neglect, but when I hit it with the same thing that’s actually ear-deadening, and it resonates for a really long time, so there’s obviously a difference between those two, and it’s still ringing.

But look what happens with this BSP blade with those anti-vibration things—slots. There’s absolutely no vibration. What you can hear is the nut hitting the blade. But there’s no ringing, no resonance, and when I touch it, there’s no vibration still coming through the blade. So to me that was really impressive when I first did that test because, well, how did they get it so dead? That’s the answer—those anti-vibration slots.

Now, to me what that means is while you are cutting with this blade, you should experience very little if any vibration coming through. So your cut quality should be perfect, especially if you’re operating on a good quality saw, which has a dead, you know, straight arbor with no swing or wobble to it. So that to me was one of the coolest things about this blade, and if you’ve never seen those things before like me, you’re probably kind of impressed too.

Now, I think we’ve talked about this blade enough. So let’s actually chuck it on and test. So I went ahead and I chucked it back in the saw, and what you can see here is a variety of materials. Now, this is a 70-tooth blade, so it’s going to be probably better suited to things like plywood, MDF, and sheet goods, and also cross-cutting hardwoods. But let’s put it to the test. We’re going to do a variety of cross cuts and rip cuts on this sort of low-grade plywood. We’ve got this nice, dense hardwood jarrah. Here is some MDF. Here’s some fine, high grade plywood, if you will, with a thin veneer, and just is the back here we’ve also got some soft wood, which is just a yellow pine. So like I said we’ll chuck all of these through the blade as a rip cut and have a look at the finish quality—see for any blowout or tear on the plywoods, and then we’ll also do a cross cut to see how good a quality you get on the end grain of these hardwoods, and once again, check for blowout on the plywoods.

Okay, so I had a fairly good range of materials here, and I’ve got to tell you I am really impressed. I mean, even with just rip cutting this pine and the jarrah, that blade performed really well. It actually felt more like a combination blade, which is quite surprising. The cut quality on the hardwoods in a rip cut is really nice. I mean, I am looking down this thing, and it is super-smooth. So that is definitely a glue-ready joint, and you know, maybe just hit it whether it be a 120, 180-grit sandpaper if it’s on the outside of a tabletop or something, but that is super-smooth. So I am really impressed with that.

The plywoods like always—most plywoods always rip well. It’s the cross-cutting that gets them, but what I am surprised about with the plywood is the smoothness. Once again, it’s silky smooth. I mean, there is very little for my fingers to catch on there, and once again, glue-ready joint and definitely ready for edge banding.

Now, MDF, like you would expect—it cut like butter, and once again, the finish is super-smooth. It’s definitely smoother than how you would actually buy it—so really nice on all of these things for rip cutting. Cross cutting—that’s where your plywoods will generally get hung up and sometimes your softwoods also get a little bit of blowout, but check out this jarrah.

So I had to change over to a second piece because really these aren’t long enough to—well, wide enough to do a cross cut with, but this is just super-smooth. It’s nice and shiny already. If I catch it in the light, you can see a few score marks in there. So it would require more sanding before you kind of get to a finished state. But it is really smooth, and then thing I am impressed about on all four edges, there is no blowout, no chip out. So that’s pretty impressive considering there isn’t any backing on my cross cut table there. So, you know, cross cut sled wouldn’t be a problem. But on that it’s generally of a problem with blowout, but not with this blade.

Now, that said, the pines, or the softwood. That does have a little bit of chip out, but to be honest with you once, once I push it away with my fingers, you can barely tell. So it’s not it would affect your final piece, but there is a little bit of chip out to make note of, but just like with the jarrah, or sorry ,the ingrain is super-smooth and would only require a little bit of sanding to get to a nice, super-smooth state.

Plywoods—that’s where it generally gets pretty difficult with the cross cuts, with blowout across the grain. Now, I didn’t have my scribing blade on, I had it below the table. So it wasn’t to sort of impede the results. But on this thicker plywood—so this kind of shop-grade plywood—not even shop-grade. It’s the lowest you can get. There’s no tear out on the face or like on either face, and it’s a super-smooth cut just like with the rip cut.

So super-impressed with that, and also no chip out on the ends where you sometimes get problems. However, really fine finish ones with a thin veneer, there was a little bit of chip out there. So I would still want to use my scribing blade if I was cutting this sort of plywood, but compared to—where are we? Compared to the other end which I cut my Forrest, it’s nothing. I mean, the Forrest produced a quite a chippy fluffiness. Whereas this one is just fluffiness. So it’s not terrible, but if you didn’t have a scriber, I would still be putting some gaff tape—sorry some masking tape along your cutline just to prevent that tear out.

So probably the last thing that you guys are wanting to know is the price of these blades. Now, I am lucky because I have got it before it hits the market, at least in Australia. It’s obviously in Europe. But what they are aiming for is about $110 price mark is what I have been told through our conversations.

So it might be a bit more or a bit less depending on, you know, the final shipping costs and all that sort of stuff that they get, but really that’s a good sort of figure to have in your mind when you go looking for these blades. So a big thanks to the guys at IWoodLike for letting me have a bsp sawblade review.

So check out their website. It’s IWoodLike.com.au, and I think they’ve got a Facebook page. So also check out their Facebook page. There’s links in the description below and give them a like.

So like always, thanks watching, and if you have enjoyed this video, make sure you give us a thumbs up below, leave a comment, and also subscribe to my channel if you haven’t already because I do put out new woodworking videos pretty much every week. So there’s quite a lot of content that comes out in this channel, and I suggest you stay up to date. So yeah, thanks for watching, and I will see you in the next video.

www.jordswoodshop.com

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